December 11, 2008 at 6:52 am · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Cycling is not only cheaper than songthaews or tuk-tuks, you get to see some sights you wouldn’t have any other way.
In other words, you not only get an intimate peek into ordinary Thai life, but you get to do it 5 times faster than walking.
Oh, and experience Thai traffic firsthand.
Gotta love ‘em living on the edge. Especially with their children.
You’ll also end up discovering the kookiest places not found in any maps or guides.
And, make sure you don’t get hurt.
Before you know it, sundown’s here.
Now you cruise on your bike, release the flywheel and let the gentle breeze sweep your hair underneath the orange sky.
November 9, 2008 at 11:23 pm · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Unlike most flamboyantly named locations, this one has real tigers and monks.
In 1999, the temple abbots claimed some villagers found an orphaned tiger cub and gave it to them. It died shortly after, but word of their wildlife compassion spread and soon more appeared on their doorstep.
Over the years 21 cubs have been born – with the total number of tigers around 12 adult tigers and 4 cubs when I was there.
Injured or orphaned wild boars, goats and deers are also taken in for care in their compound. Other than the tangerine robed monks, the place very closely resembles an open air zoo.
To mingle with the tigers however, you’ll need to pay 500 Baht.
Apparently the fees goes directly into the construction of a tiger sanctuary (the plans looks theme park-ish to me) as part of their greater “The Tiger Temple Forest Monastery” vision.
And MINGLE some did.
Reputedly the tigers having been raised by monks, are docile and no more harmless than a pussy cat. Fed on a diet of cooked chicken and cat food, they have never tasted blood nor hunted before.
This gutsy bloke even ventured as far as playing with the cub’s teeth.
Well tasty people (like me) is probably better off just strolling beside it. Next to the temple’s Head Abbot, whom the cats noticeably listen to.
We all walked to a manmade canyon-like location where for more money you can have a closeup photo with the tiger of your choice.
It’s an offer that neither Western nor Asian tourists could resist.
To be honest, I can’t figure out why they’re so tame. I figured it’s either, they’re tranquilized (suspicious constant supply of bottled water) or it’s just the lazy time of the day after a full meal.
Maybe it’s really the mysterious calming aura of Theravada Buddhism monks’ chanting and meditation.
AHA! Caught the monk refraining this tiger cub – it was glaring at and ready to pounce over these (stupidly clueless) piglets !!!
I’m pretty damn sure, this little pussy wanted some pork chop. Yummy.
October 4, 2008 at 10:18 pm · Filed under Architecture, Culture, Thailand
Burma Railway is a 415 km railway between Bangkok, Thailand and Rangoon, Myanmar – built by the Empire of Japan during World War II to support its forces in the Burma campaign.
The sea route, namely through Malaysia and Singapore, is patrolled by the reputable British navy, hence the construction of this very difficult route.
Much of the Death Railway isn’t particularly interesting because it looks like just any other ordinary railway track.
Occasionally you come across a section where you marvel at the engineering, and wonder how they pulled it off with rudimentary tools and starving prisoners-of-war.
This cliff of solid stone, was excavated without explosives. If I recall correctly, only pick axes were used. No lorries as well, only sacks on backs to carry the rubble away.
The railway tracks have to be constructed dramatically higher than the terrain in order to squeeze between the cliff and the river bank – with the same dodgy tools.
Forced labour was used in its construction. About 180,000 Asian labourers and 60,000 Allied prisoners of war (POWs) worked on the railway.
Of these, around 90,000 Asian labourers and 16,000 Allied POWs died as a direct result of the project.
Midway there’s a surprise cave temple which was not documented anywhere.
Can’t tell if it existed during WWII or after because like most cave temples, this one is remarkably well maintained for such a secluded spot.
See related posts The Bridge over the River Kwai and Kanchanaburi War Cemetery and Death Railway Museum.
September 2, 2008 at 9:35 pm · Filed under Nature, Thailand
Erawan Falls, Thailand’s most famous waterfall, was our original destination. Lamentably the past few days had heavy rainfall and the park was closed for safety.
We’re forced to detour and decided to suss out Sai Yok waterfall.
We thought it was a compromise, but we’re wrong. It’s bigger than Erawan Falls and impressive in a different way.
Like Erawan Falls (trans: Thai for the mythical Hindu three-headed elephant “Airavata”), whose contours resembles its namesake – Nam Tok Sai Yok’s appearance is also rather bulbous.
These waterfalls get their intriguing shapes from the water’s high calcium content, depositing itself layer upon layer along the stream’s course.
Even small branches and twigs that fall into the water are rapidly coated with limestone.
Swimming (highly recommended by our tour guide) seems a little awkward for adults given how shallow the water is.
Nonetheless it’s an ideal family picnic spot, with a constant shade of mist and plenty of flat terrain encircling the falls.
August 1, 2008 at 4:01 am · Filed under Food, Thailand
Guest Post by Marianne (The Chef)
Along the streets of Thailand (notably Nakhon Pathom), you’ll see stalls with curious stacks of bamboo on them. Look behind and you’ll find a machete-wielding man!
He shouts,
Dtrai Nèung Roi Baht!
Then after sensing we’re not locals…
3 for 100 Baht, Sticky Rice, Velli Nice … you want?
These bundles of bamboo are Nakhon Pathom’s famous Khao Lam (trans: ข้าวหลาม, Thai for glutinous rice cooked in bamboo).
The rice is soaked for several hours than mixed with coconut milk and sugar. Then this mixture is stuffed into bamboo trunks that are sealed on both ends with banana leaves and steamed.
Variations include using dark or white glutinous rice, adding black beans or egg custard. Like many traditional recipes, every vendor claims their version is the best.
We ordered three of mixed variety. The vendor whips out her machete and swiftly splits them in a blink. Raffia string is then tied for easy transport. Mimicking locals, we stood at the bus stop clawing away with our fingers.
Unfortunately, I personally did not like khao lam but the boys seemed to enjoy it. The ones we had were too sweet for my taste and the glutinous rice just does not do it for me. However, I have to say the the rice (having been cooked in bamboo) absorbed a woody flavour and produced a very unique aroma.
I can see why the locals make this dish their staple; you can easily cycle home or get on the bus with khao lam slinged over your shoulders. It tastes good eaten hot or cold, is very filling and relatively cheap.
Be careful not to eat too much! According to Thai tradition, sticky rice puts you fast asleep if more than a couple of handfuls are eaten.
July 29, 2008 at 6:03 pm · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Being the quiet quaint town, I was ready for boredom as night falls. So imagine my thrill when I discovered shisha here.
As far as the Rat Pack is concerned, turns out I was the only “experienced” one. So I ordered apple, my favorite and always the classic for induction.
At this point, Julius looks intently at the hookah, then at me,
Is there tobacco in this?
I grinned,
Do you care? Anyway, just take a deep breath of it then exhale.
One minute later, the newbie inhales, followed quickly by a contorted face.
30 minutes later, Julius gets jiggy with it.
One hour later, JULIUS TURNS PRO!
And we huffed and puffed, under the rural Thai night sky, late into the night …
June 28, 2008 at 8:50 pm · Filed under Architecture, Culture, Thailand
There are no bicycle racks here, no posts, pipes or loops whatsoever to secure our bikes. So we got creative.
Upon arriving at the museum, I wasn’t be entirely convinced with the signs on the building (given the proliferation of piracy in Thailand).
However, it’s not too shabby inside. Too bad cameras weren’t allowed, there’s plenty of models to help you wrap your head around how massive the Death Railway is/was.
There’s even an actual reconstruction of the Bridge over River Kwai (the original wooden version) and even 1:1 models of the prisoners’ living conditions. Historical photographs were worth seeing too.
It’s rather abrupt to see such orderliness and cleanliness in a country like Thailand, but it shouldn’t be surprising given that it’s managed by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.
There are 6,982 POWs buried here mostly Australian, British and Dutch.
Having visited many World War II memorials sites—notably the ANZAC memorials in Sydney, Melbourne and Canberra, as well as the Ranau War Memorial in Borneo—I can’t help but feel a sense of connection between them all.
I guess war amplifies differences but ultimately makes the world smaller.
May 27, 2008 at 2:22 am · Filed under Culture, Nature, Thailand
What trip to Thailand would be complete without observing an elephant up close and personal.
Oh-oh it’s turning! Looks like he’s trying to strike a conversation, say something.
Hi there.
Wait, I SWEAR I’m hearing something. Elephants trumpet don’t they? This sounds suspiciously like water, like sprinkling water.
HOLY CRAP!
RUN! But where???
Stay in front! NO! Won’t he get angry? And charge at us???
Move behind! NO! Elephant pee will surge to our sandals! Help, dilemma!
Ahhh, and I thought the torrent would never stop.
Hmm, if you look hard enough, you can see a satisfied smirk on his face.
April 25, 2008 at 9:29 pm · Filed under Architecture, Culture, Thailand
Kanchanaburi is a real nice quiet & small town, perfect for cycling. As for one of us, learning how to cycle.
You wouldn’t even suspect one of World War II’s big epics happened here.
Have you ever read the novel, or seen the film “The Bridge on the River Kwai”? Here’s news for you, the plot is entirely fictitious.
The actual bridge over River Kwai however, is very real – as well as the deaths of forced slave labour used to build it, estimated to be 13,000 prisoners-of-war and 80,000 to 100,000 civilians from Malaya, Dutch East Indies, Siam and Burma.
WWII aficionados will appreciate that the bridge is an integral part of the infamous Burma Death Railway.
All the concrete and steel parts are still intact since the war ended. A definite must-see site.
What I find more amusing is that the river was not even originally called River Kwai. Before 1960 (i.e. before the release of the novel and movie), it was called Mae Klong.
Typical of most Hollywood foul ups, the novelist who inspired the movie never visited the bridge and assumed that, since the Burma Death Railway ran along River Kwai, this bridge must have crossed it.
A flood of misguided tourists showed up to look for a bridge over River Kwai and found nothing.
Subsequently, the authorities in Thailand renamed the river Kwai Yai (trans: แควใหญ่, thai for Big Tributary).
And bravo, history is changed to the delight and convenience of tourists. You won’t find this fact in travel brochures and sorts.
There’s a strange transition of scale between the end and mid-sections. The rounded arches appear larger than life, and the angular sections (the bit that got bombed by Allied forces, and thereafter rebuilt by the Japanese as “payment for their war crimes”) are much larger than expected.
For a bridge that’s declared “actively used today”, there’s really nothing on the other bank. The one-carriage “train” that crosses, holds 10-12 passengers only for a pathetic shuttle back and forth the river banks.
It puts pedestrians (like us) in a rather precarious position. If we can’t make it to the next platform in time, we have to sidestep and balance ourselves on a narrow 30 cm piece of something (eg. steel beam or timber board) about 4 metres above the swirling river.
Happened to me twice, must say it was utterly hair raising.
March 12, 2008 at 11:42 pm · Filed under Culture, Food, Thailand, Unusual
When night falls in Nakhon Pathom, a night market emerges underneath the twilight shadow of a great chedi. A lone man appears with his stall, unassuming at first but his unshakable aura of confidence – soon follows.
Reaching his usual spot at the market, he picks up his ice cream scoop. He looks around, searching and suddenly, makes eye contact with you. A wave of energy rushes forth from him and he SNAPS into his starting position!!
He looks you in the eye and bellows,
SATU, DUA, TIGAAAAAA – AN YOUNG HA SAY OHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! (안녕하세요 – Thanks Sae Hoon)
Whips out a red fan from nowhere – splays it above, below and next to him. Fan disappears. And in a split second – a blur of movements ensues, like a drunken martial arts master he assumes one contorted pose after another.
The master finishes his moves, final stance. Then slowly tilts his head up.
A PIECE OF ICE CREAM HAS BEEN LAUNCHED, IT’S FLYING IN THE AIR!!!
Time slows down, the silence became deafening, it sails across the air in a curve, slowing spinning along its trajectory … and it lands!
Perfectly in the cup held by his accomplice from the audience, 20 metres away!
The crowd erupts in applause!!! The master bows! Our minds, blown away!
And before you know it, another unmistakable wave of energy …
SATU, DUA, TIGAAAAAA – AN YOUNG HA SAY OHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!
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