Archive for Thailand
November 29, 2009 at 12:04 am · Filed under Food, Thailand
Whenever several guidebooks consistently name the same must-try dish, you bet that it’s on my itinerary. In Chiang Mai, this dish is Khao Soi — which means “cut rice”.
Originally introduced from Burma, Chiang Mai’s variation uses egg noodles instead of its pure rice namesake.
The egg noodles and minced pork are drenched in a curry-like broth of tumeric, coconut milk and other spices. Piping hot, served garnished with the signature deep-fried noodles and cilantro.
For those looking for more flavour, the bowl is always accompanied at the side by sliced raw shallots, pickled salty mustard greens, a wedge of lime, and (of course) the ubiquitous roasted chilli paste.
For my Singaporean-Malaysian brethren, Khao Soi sounds suspiciously like laksa. Indeed the taste is like laksa, but much milder, with more hints of curry spices than coconut milk or chilli.
Sadly, this dish is not found is most Thai restaurants elsewhere in the world, which almost exclusively serve Southern Thai cuisine.
However if you chance upon it, do yourself a favor by trying this wonderful cousin of laksa.
September 10, 2009 at 6:07 am · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Chiang Mai’s night market has the standard labyrinth of tourist t-shirts and cheap designer knock offs.
That is until we wandered into the basement and discovered portrait studios, a thriving den of charcoal artists.
I was expecting your run-of-the-mill street side caricature artist. But quickly discovered they’re far from typical.
Here most artists graduated from art school and make their living painstakingly enlarging photographs into graphite masterpieces.
If you think they’re mere human photocopiers, you’ll realise that blowing a thumbnail up to A2 size by hand requires a formidable amount of artistic talent.
Having drawn charcoal copies myself, I can assure you that a lot of detail has to be imagined first before the brush hits the paper. And creative aptitude they have here, by the bucketloads.
Furthermore, I couldn’t spot any trickery. Just a loupe on the left hand, a brush on a steady right, and patience the size of jumbo jets.
The tools of the trade are deceptively simple, but I’m sure each brush is its own unique combination tip size, shape and mix of graphite powder.
So next time you drop by, I highly recommend that you bring a photo for them to draw.
That is, unless you possess a raw talent in sitting completely still—without flinching one bit—for a few hours.
August 12, 2009 at 1:17 am · Filed under Architecture, Thailand
Guest post by Julius
If there was a category of attraction defined as “cool-weird-serene-semi-boring-relaxing” Bang Pa In would fall into it.
Not knowing much of the history of it—beyond my memory of what Jay had explained it to me as, some King, who took an interest in european/asian culture/architecture, thus building a summer palace at home that comprised of elements from multiple cultures?
Highlights? Gotta be them bad-assed animal shaped shrubs. Look at them! They’re huge!!
And then there was this miniaturized house- made for midgets?
It was a nice day when Ben and I visited. Plenty to walk around in the compound of the palace.
They even had golf buggies!!! If only the king had thought of putting in an 18 hole, if they existed back then.
July 12, 2009 at 1:12 am · Filed under Culture, Thailand
The Royal Elephant Kraal dates back to the 14th century. In those days, a great “Elephant Hunt” takes place every year and mahouts gather the best wild jungle elephants for work, transport and warfare.
We strolled in and the first fellow who greeted us was,
Angry Jumbo! Definitely a “warfare” type.
By the early 20th century, the elephant herding practice disappeared. Today, this is the last kraal in Thailand, where the dying mahout tradition continues to live.
Note the stick hanging from the elephant’s ear.
Guess what the stick is for?
It’s called an ankus. Besides climbing elephants, now and then you’ll find a mahout forcibly stabbing a stubborn elephant with the metal end.
Note the elephant’s leg. The animal raised its knee so his mahout could mount. Kinda cool, like a spaceship ladder.
Elephants were used to carry logs in Thailand’s rain forests until the timber industry was outlawed in the 1990s.
Thousands of mahouts and their elephants were suddenly out of jobs. Some resorted to begging on the streets of Bangkok and Chiang Mai …
… while others switched to the entertainment and tourism industry.
I don’t know if the animals are better off but elephants are, undeniably, chick magnets.
These elephants parade around the main sights of Ayutthaya all day.
So much so, there’s even a lady donning the same attire following them around with a trolley.
I thought that was feed for the elephants.
Little did I know, it was feed for … plants?
May 11, 2009 at 8:56 pm · Filed under Architecture, Thailand, UNESCO
Our bus arrived late in Ayutthaya. Short on time, we scrambled on our bikes to tour the city at dusk. That was one happy accident.
The ruins at twilight were breathtaking. The colours, vibe and atmosphere were unreal, like a dream.
Wat Phukhao Thong (เจดีย์ภูเขาทอง)
When the western world first discovered Siam, Ayutthaya was the capital city.
During the 17th century, Ayutthaya was one of the biggest and wealthiest cities in the world. The ambassadors of King Louis XIV felt its size and scale was comparable to Paris.
In 1767, the kingdom of Ayutthaya was sacked by the Burmese. A fleeing general gathered the remaining forces to a small garrison town called Thonburi where he made himself king and established a new kingdom.
Today, that town is known as Bangkok.
Ayutthaya’s ruins are now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Unlike Sukhothai, the ruins are much bigger and better preserved, but scattered all over the city—hence the bikes.
Wat Chaiwatthanaram (วัดไชยวัฒนาราม)
Designed in the Khmer style (inspired by Angkor Wat), the princes and princesses of Ayutthaya were cremated in this royal Buddhist temple.
Wat Phra Sri Sanphet (วัดพระศรีสรรเพ็ชญ์)
Near the Grand Palace, this is the king’s private chapel. The three Sri Lankan-style chedis enshrine the ashes of three Ayutthayan kings.
Wat Ratchaburana (วัดราชบุรณะ)
Couldn’t get near this one!
At this point, it was too dark to see anything. We decided to continue the next day.
April 28, 2009 at 6:08 am · Filed under Food, Thailand, Transit, Unusual
Dedicated to the random culinary mishaps whilst wandering between Thailand’s towns.
You know how refreshing sugarcane juice can be on a hot day?
Well good news is, there’s just TONS of sugarcane in Southern Thailand. TONS.
You can buy raw sugarcane stalks, nicely cut to bite size portions, just about anywhere.
Bad news is, gnawing on raw sugarcane does not quench your thirst. It MAKES you more thirsty!!
The sugar already makes your throat dry. To make it worse, the fibres soak up every drop of saliva, every attempt your mouth tries to rehydrate. Then it becomes chewing sawdust!
Speaking of thirsty, imagine when you spot a bottle of Singha on the menu. For 20 bahts only!! Ah the joy!
And always, always, ALWAYS check the “kitchen” first before ordering any street food.
Here’s a stall that sells green mango salad (yummy!) … garnished with roasted meat (yummy!).
(To be fair, it’s probably the very edible and delicious delicacy known as “bamboo rats”. I’m sure Thai people are nice enough to warn you beforehand—if they know you’re an ignorant tourist. But you may never know …)
March 10, 2009 at 4:45 am · Filed under Culture, Thailand
So, what’s there to do in a small country town at night?
Well if you’re the idling type, you can watch a movie.
Or if you’re the active type, play sepak takraw.
For those feeling lucky, maybe spare some change to win furry little toys.
But if you’re a kid …
YOU WORK.
Work?? Yes, WORK!
Right … you’re probably thinking there’s trickery here. You think I’m fooling you.
You think this shot is so perfectly timed, so perfectly composed, that the kid’s the one buying the toy right?
NOoo!! This is FOR REAL! He took the adult’s money, then handed the toy over!!
The kids here are vicious! Look at the popcorn kid!
He sure looks like boss to me!!! (note the cash in front of him)
With him leering at me like that, I felt like he swindled me already!
Pop quiz. Who wants Barbie here?
a) The Man.
b) The Girl.
February 5, 2009 at 3:21 am · Filed under Culture, Food, Thailand
I’ve thoroughly enjoyed Thailand’s night markets so far. Not only do I get to sample truly local dishes, I pay truly local prices!
I was looking forward to what Sukhothai has to offer.
Hmm, popcorn?
Nope. Not convinced these are “special” Thai popcorn. Next!
Hmmmmmm, donuts.
Where’s the local food?! God dammit, I’m not going to settle for this!
(continues hunt)
Hey this is promising, bet it’s a Khanom-something, but I need savoury food first.
And wait … is that, MORE POPCORN? (bewildered)
A-HA! PAD THAI! Okay, mmm not freshly made but it’s local. (buys takeaway and rejoins group)
So Julius, what did you get?
Pizza.
At least there’s “Thai” chicken floss on it.
(In hindsight, finding local dishes at Southeast-Asian night markets never got this hard again. What’s up Sukhothai?)
January 4, 2009 at 8:58 pm · Filed under Architecture, Thailand, UNESCO
Traditional Thai historians consider Sukhothai (which means “the dawn of happiness”) as the first capital city, its ruin is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site near the modern city of New Sukhothai.
Upon entering, you will notice a statue of King Ramkamhaeng, the third king of the Sukhothai empire, who ruled during the kingdom’s most prosperous period.
He created the Thai alphabet and introduced Theravada Buddhism as the official state religion. So you can imagine the huge reverence Thais bestow upon him.
We know this from King Mongkut (Rama IV), who found the first Stone Inscription in his archaeological expeditions and transcribed the history of the Sukhothai kingdom.
King Mongkut then incorporated Sukhothai into the Thailand’s historical identity as their starting point.
But modern Thai historians feel that older Thai kingdoms exist further back although they exist as small vassal states to surrounding empires.
The Sukhothai-style of architecture and sculpture is immediately distinct to me.
All the columns, the statues, the podium—their proportions have a slim elegance to them. There’s also minimal detailing between elements, such as where the columns meet the podium and so forth. Akin to a sort of slender Tuscan order.
Even the individual bricks are elongated and slender. Having said that, the vertical scale is still greatly emphasised, accentuated by a myriad of slim bandings at the extremities.
The statues also acquire a feminine poise from Sukhothai’s tendency towards leanness and tapered forms.
(That’s real gold, by the way)
December 11, 2008 at 6:52 am · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Cycling is not only cheaper than songthaews or tuk-tuks, you get to see some sights you wouldn’t have any other way.
In other words, you not only get an intimate peek into ordinary Thai life, but you get to do it 5 times faster than walking.
Oh, and experience Thai traffic firsthand.
Gotta love ‘em living on the edge. Especially with their children.
You’ll also end up discovering the kookiest places not found in any maps or guides.
And, make sure you don’t get hurt.
Before you know it, sundown’s here.
Now you cruise on your bike, release the flywheel and let the gentle breeze sweep your hair underneath the orange sky.
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