Archive for Culture
September 10, 2009 at 6:07 am · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Chiang Mai’s night market has the standard labyrinth of tourist t-shirts and cheap designer knock offs.
That is until we wandered into the basement and discovered portrait studios, a thriving den of charcoal artists.
I was expecting your run-of-the-mill street side caricature artist. But quickly discovered they’re far from typical.
Here most artists graduated from art school and make their living painstakingly enlarging photographs into graphite masterpieces.
If you think they’re mere human photocopiers, you’ll realise that blowing a thumbnail up to A2 size by hand requires a formidable amount of artistic talent.
Having drawn charcoal copies myself, I can assure you that a lot of detail has to be imagined first before the brush hits the paper. And creative aptitude they have here, by the bucketloads.
Furthermore, I couldn’t spot any trickery. Just a loupe on the left hand, a brush on a steady right, and patience the size of jumbo jets.
The tools of the trade are deceptively simple, but I’m sure each brush is its own unique combination tip size, shape and mix of graphite powder.
So next time you drop by, I highly recommend that you bring a photo for them to draw.
That is, unless you possess a raw talent in sitting completely still—without flinching one bit—for a few hours.
July 12, 2009 at 1:12 am · Filed under Culture, Thailand
The Royal Elephant Kraal dates back to the 14th century. In those days, a great “Elephant Hunt” takes place every year and mahouts gather the best wild jungle elephants for work, transport and warfare.
We strolled in and the first fellow who greeted us was,
Angry Jumbo! Definitely a “warfare” type.
By the early 20th century, the elephant herding practice disappeared. Today, this is the last kraal in Thailand, where the dying mahout tradition continues to live.
Note the stick hanging from the elephant’s ear.
Guess what the stick is for?
It’s called an ankus. Besides climbing elephants, now and then you’ll find a mahout forcibly stabbing a stubborn elephant with the metal end.
Note the elephant’s leg. The animal raised its knee so his mahout could mount. Kinda cool, like a spaceship ladder.
Elephants were used to carry logs in Thailand’s rain forests until the timber industry was outlawed in the 1990s.
Thousands of mahouts and their elephants were suddenly out of jobs. Some resorted to begging on the streets of Bangkok and Chiang Mai …
… while others switched to the entertainment and tourism industry.
I don’t know if the animals are better off but elephants are, undeniably, chick magnets.
These elephants parade around the main sights of Ayutthaya all day.
So much so, there’s even a lady donning the same attire following them around with a trolley.
I thought that was feed for the elephants.
Little did I know, it was feed for … plants?
March 10, 2009 at 4:45 am · Filed under Culture, Thailand
So, what’s there to do in a small country town at night?
Well if you’re the idling type, you can watch a movie.
Or if you’re the active type, play sepak takraw.
For those feeling lucky, maybe spare some change to win furry little toys.
But if you’re a kid …
YOU WORK.
Work?? Yes, WORK!
Right … you’re probably thinking there’s trickery here. You think I’m fooling you.
You think this shot is so perfectly timed, so perfectly composed, that the kid’s the one buying the toy right?
NOoo!! This is FOR REAL! He took the adult’s money, then handed the toy over!!
The kids here are vicious! Look at the popcorn kid!
He sure looks like boss to me!!! (note the cash in front of him)
With him leering at me like that, I felt like he swindled me already!
Pop quiz. Who wants Barbie here?
a) The Man.
b) The Girl.
February 5, 2009 at 3:21 am · Filed under Culture, Food, Thailand
I’ve thoroughly enjoyed Thailand’s night markets so far. Not only do I get to sample truly local dishes, I pay truly local prices!
I was looking forward to what Sukhothai has to offer.
Hmm, popcorn?
Nope. Not convinced these are “special” Thai popcorn. Next!
Hmmmmmm, donuts.
Where’s the local food?! God dammit, I’m not going to settle for this!
(continues hunt)
Hey this is promising, bet it’s a Khanom-something, but I need savoury food first.
And wait … is that, MORE POPCORN? (bewildered)
A-HA! PAD THAI! Okay, mmm not freshly made but it’s local. (buys takeaway and rejoins group)
So Julius, what did you get?
Pizza.
At least there’s “Thai” chicken floss on it.
(In hindsight, finding local dishes at Southeast-Asian night markets never got this hard again. What’s up Sukhothai?)
December 11, 2008 at 6:52 am · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Cycling is not only cheaper than songthaews or tuk-tuks, you get to see some sights you wouldn’t have any other way.
In other words, you not only get an intimate peek into ordinary Thai life, but you get to do it 5 times faster than walking.
Oh, and experience Thai traffic firsthand.
Gotta love ‘em living on the edge. Especially with their children.
You’ll also end up discovering the kookiest places not found in any maps or guides.
And, make sure you don’t get hurt.
Before you know it, sundown’s here.
Now you cruise on your bike, release the flywheel and let the gentle breeze sweep your hair underneath the orange sky.
November 9, 2008 at 11:23 pm · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Unlike most flamboyantly named locations, this one has real tigers and monks.
In 1999, the temple abbots claimed some villagers found an orphaned tiger cub and gave it to them. It died shortly after, but word of their wildlife compassion spread and soon more appeared on their doorstep.
Over the years 21 cubs have been born – with the total number of tigers around 12 adult tigers and 4 cubs when I was there.
Injured or orphaned wild boars, goats and deers are also taken in for care in their compound. Other than the tangerine robed monks, the place very closely resembles an open air zoo.
To mingle with the tigers however, you’ll need to pay 500 Baht.
Apparently the fees goes directly into the construction of a tiger sanctuary (the plans looks theme park-ish to me) as part of their greater “The Tiger Temple Forest Monastery” vision.
And MINGLE some did.
Reputedly the tigers having been raised by monks, are docile and no more harmless than a pussy cat. Fed on a diet of cooked chicken and cat food, they have never tasted blood nor hunted before.
This gutsy bloke even ventured as far as playing with the cub’s teeth.
Well tasty people (like me) is probably better off just strolling beside it. Next to the temple’s Head Abbot, whom the cats noticeably listen to.
We all walked to a manmade canyon-like location where for more money you can have a closeup photo with the tiger of your choice.
It’s an offer that neither Western nor Asian tourists could resist.
To be honest, I can’t figure out why they’re so tame. I figured it’s either, they’re tranquilized (suspicious constant supply of bottled water) or it’s just the lazy time of the day after a full meal.
Maybe it’s really the mysterious calming aura of Theravada Buddhism monks’ chanting and meditation.
AHA! Caught the monk refraining this tiger cub – it was glaring at and ready to pounce over these (stupidly clueless) piglets !!!
I’m pretty damn sure, this little pussy wanted some pork chop. Yummy.
October 4, 2008 at 10:18 pm · Filed under Architecture, Culture, Thailand
Burma Railway is a 415 km railway between Bangkok, Thailand and Rangoon, Myanmar – built by the Empire of Japan during World War II to support its forces in the Burma campaign.
The sea route, namely through Malaysia and Singapore, is patrolled by the reputable British navy, hence the construction of this very difficult route.
Much of the Death Railway isn’t particularly interesting because it looks like just any other ordinary railway track.
Occasionally you come across a section where you marvel at the engineering, and wonder how they pulled it off with rudimentary tools and starving prisoners-of-war.
This cliff of solid stone, was excavated without explosives. If I recall correctly, only pick axes were used. No lorries as well, only sacks on backs to carry the rubble away.
The railway tracks have to be constructed dramatically higher than the terrain in order to squeeze between the cliff and the river bank – with the same dodgy tools.
Forced labour was used in its construction. About 180,000 Asian labourers and 60,000 Allied prisoners of war (POWs) worked on the railway.
Of these, around 90,000 Asian labourers and 16,000 Allied POWs died as a direct result of the project.
Midway there’s a surprise cave temple which was not documented anywhere.
Can’t tell if it existed during WWII or after because like most cave temples, this one is remarkably well maintained for such a secluded spot.
See related posts The Bridge over the River Kwai and Kanchanaburi War Cemetery and Death Railway Museum.
July 29, 2008 at 6:03 pm · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Being the quiet quaint town, I was ready for boredom as night falls. So imagine my thrill when I discovered shisha here.
As far as the Rat Pack is concerned, turns out I was the only “experienced” one. So I ordered apple, my favorite and always the classic for induction.
At this point, Julius looks intently at the hookah, then at me,
Is there tobacco in this?
I grinned,
Do you care? Anyway, just take a deep breath of it then exhale.
One minute later, the newbie inhales, followed quickly by a contorted face.
30 minutes later, Julius gets jiggy with it.
One hour later, JULIUS TURNS PRO!
And we huffed and puffed, under the rural Thai night sky, late into the night …
June 28, 2008 at 8:50 pm · Filed under Architecture, Culture, Thailand
There are no bicycle racks here, no posts, pipes or loops whatsoever to secure our bikes. So we got creative.
Upon arriving at the museum, I wasn’t be entirely convinced with the signs on the building (given the proliferation of piracy in Thailand).
However, it’s not too shabby inside. Too bad cameras weren’t allowed, there’s plenty of models to help you wrap your head around how massive the Death Railway is/was.
There’s even an actual reconstruction of the Bridge over River Kwai (the original wooden version) and even 1:1 models of the prisoners’ living conditions. Historical photographs were worth seeing too.
It’s rather abrupt to see such orderliness and cleanliness in a country like Thailand, but it shouldn’t be surprising given that it’s managed by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.
There are 6,982 POWs buried here mostly Australian, British and Dutch.
Having visited many World War II memorials sites—notably the ANZAC memorials in Sydney, Melbourne and Canberra, as well as the Ranau War Memorial in Borneo—I can’t help but feel a sense of connection between them all.
I guess war amplifies differences but ultimately makes the world smaller.
May 27, 2008 at 2:22 am · Filed under Culture, Nature, Thailand
What trip to Thailand would be complete without observing an elephant up close and personal.
Oh-oh it’s turning! Looks like he’s trying to strike a conversation, say something.
Hi there.
Wait, I SWEAR I’m hearing something. Elephants trumpet don’t they? This sounds suspiciously like water, like sprinkling water.
HOLY CRAP!
RUN! But where???
Stay in front! NO! Won’t he get angry? And charge at us???
Move behind! NO! Elephant pee will surge to our sandals! Help, dilemma!
Ahhh, and I thought the torrent would never stop.
Hmm, if you look hard enough, you can see a satisfied smirk on his face.
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