Tastebuds in Thailand – ข้าวหลาม Khao Lam
Guest Post by Marianne (The Chef)
Along the streets of Thailand (notably Nakhon Pathom), you’ll see stalls with curious stacks of bamboo on them. Look behind and you’ll find a machete-wielding man!
He shouts,
Dtrai Nèung Roi Baht!
Then after sensing we’re not locals…
3 for 100 Baht, Sticky Rice, Velli Nice … you want?
These bundles of bamboo are Nakhon Pathom’s famous Khao Lam (trans: ข้าวหลาม, Thai for glutinous rice cooked in bamboo).
The rice is soaked for several hours than mixed with coconut milk and sugar. Then this mixture is stuffed into bamboo trunks that are sealed on both ends with banana leaves and steamed.
Variations include using dark or white glutinous rice, adding black beans or egg custard. Like many traditional recipes, every vendor claims their version is the best.
We ordered three of mixed variety. The vendor whips out her machete and swiftly splits them in a blink. Raffia string is then tied for easy transport. Mimicking locals, we stood at the bus stop clawing away with our fingers.
Unfortunately, I personally did not like khao lam but the boys seemed to enjoy it. The ones we had were too sweet for my taste and the glutinous rice just does not do it for me. However, I have to say the the rice (having been cooked in bamboo) absorbed a woody flavour and produced a very unique aroma.
I can see why the locals make this dish their staple; you can easily cycle home or get on the bus with khao lam slinged over your shoulders. It tastes good eaten hot or cold, is very filling and relatively cheap.
Be careful not to eat too much! According to Thai tradition, sticky rice puts you fast asleep if more than a couple of handfuls are eaten.
