Archive for 2008
December 11, 2008 at 6:52 am · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Cycling is not only cheaper than songthaews or tuk-tuks, you get to see some sights you wouldn’t have any other way.
In other words, you not only get an intimate peek into ordinary Thai life, but you get to do it 5 times faster than walking.
Oh, and experience Thai traffic firsthand.
Gotta love ‘em living on the edge. Especially with their children.
You’ll also end up discovering the kookiest places not found in any maps or guides.
Make sure you don’t get hurt.
And before you know it’s sundown.
Now you cruise on your bike, release the flywheel and let the gentle breeze sweep your hair underneath the orange sky.
November 9, 2008 at 11:23 pm · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Unlike most flamboyantly named locations, this one has real tigers and monks.
In 1999, the temple abbots claimed some villagers found an orphaned tiger cub and gave it to them. It died shortly after, but word of their wildlife compassion spread and soon more appeared on their doorstep.
Over the years 21 cubs have been born – with the total number of tigers around 12 adult tigers and 4 cubs when I was there.
Injured or orphaned wild boars, goats and deers are also taken in for care in their compound. Other than the tangerine robed monks, the place very closely resembles an open air zoo.
To mingle with the tigers however, you’ll need to pay 500 Baht.
Apparently the fees goes directly into the construction of a tiger sanctuary (the plans looks theme park-ish to me) as part of their greater “The Tiger Temple Forest Monastery” vision.
And MINGLE some did.
Reputedly the tigers having been raised by monks, are docile and no more harmless than a pussy cat. Fed on a diet of cooked chicken and cat food, they have never tasted blood nor hunted before.
This gutsy bloke even ventured as far as playing with the cub’s teeth.
Well tasty people like me is probably better off just strolling beside it. Next to the security of the head abbot of the temple, whom the cats noticeably listen to.
We all walked to a manmade canyon-like location where for more money you can have a closeup photo with the tiger of your choice.
It’s an offer that neither Western nor Asian tourists could resist.
To be honest, I can’t figure out why they’re so tame. I figured it’s either, they’re tranquilized (suspicious constant supply of bottled water) or it’s just the lazy time of the day after a full meal.
Maybe it’s really the mysterious calming aura of Theravada Buddhism monks’ chanting and meditation.
AHA! Caught the monk refraining this tiger cub – it was glaring at and ready to pounce over these (stupidly clueless) piglets !!!
I’m pretty damn sure, this little pussy wanted some pork chop. Yummy.
October 4, 2008 at 10:18 pm · Filed under Architecture, Culture, Thailand
Burma Railway is a 415 km railway between Bangkok, Thailand and Rangoon, Myanmar – built by the Empire of Japan during World War II to support its forces in the Burma campaign.
The sea route, namely through Malaysia and Singapore, is patrolled by the reputable British navy, hence the construction of this very difficult route.
Much of the Death Railway isn’t particularly interesting because it looks like just any other ordinary railway track.
Occasionally you come across a section where you marvel at the engineering, and wonder how they pulled it off with rudimentary tools and starved labour.
The cliff here was excavated without explosives, and if I recall correctly, only using pick axes and sacks to carry rocks away.
Then tracks have to be constructed dramatically higher than the terrain to squeeze in between the cliff and river – with the same dodgy tools.
Forced labour was used in its construction. About 180,000 Asian labourers and 60,000 Allied prisoners of war (POWs) worked on the railway.
Of these, around 90,000 Asian labourers and 16,000 Allied POWs died as a direct result of the project.
Midway there’s a surprise cave temple which was not documented anywhere.
Can’t tell if it existed during WWII or after because like most cave temples, this one is remarkably well maintained for such a secluded spot.
See related posts The Bridge over the River Kwai and Kanchanaburi War Cemetery and Death Railway Museum.
September 2, 2008 at 9:35 pm · Filed under Nature, Thailand
Erawan Falls, Thailand’s most famous waterfall, was our original destination. Lamentably the past few days had heavy rainfall and the park was closed for safety.
We’re forced to detour and decided to suss out Sai Yok waterfall.
Thinking it was a compromise, it’s certainly bigger than Erawan and equally impressive in a different way.
Like Erawan Falls (trans: Thai for the mythical Hindu three-headed elephant “Airavata”), whose contours resembles its namesake – Nam Tok Sai Yok’s appearance is also remarkably bulbous.
These waterfalls get their intriguing shapes from the water’s high calcium content, depositing itself layer upon layer along the stream’s course.
Even branches and twigs fallen into the water are rapidly coated with limestone.
Swimming, however highly recommended by our tour guide, seems a little awkward for adults given how shallow the water is.
Nonetheless it’s an ideal family picnic spot, with a constant shade of mist and plenty of flat terrain encircling the falls.
August 1, 2008 at 4:01 am · Filed under Food, Thailand
Guest Post by Marianne (The Chef)
Along the streets of Thailand (notably Nakhon Pathom), you’ll see stalls with curious stacks of bamboo on them. Look behind and you’ll find a machete-wielding man!
He shouts,
Dtrai Nèung Roi Baht!
Then after sensing we’re not locals…
3 for 100 Baht, Sticky Rice, Velli Nice … you want?
These bundles of bamboo are Nakhon Pathom’s famous Khao Lam (trans: ข้าวหลาม, Thai for glutinous rice cooked in bamboo).
The rice is soaked for several hours than mixed with coconut milk and sugar. Then this mixture is stuffed into bamboo trunks that are sealed on both ends with banana leaves and steamed.
Variations include using dark or white glutinous rice, adding black beans or egg custard. Like many traditional recipes, every vendor claims their version is the best.
We ordered three of mixed variety. The vendor whips out her machete and swiftly splits them in a blink. Raffia string is then tied for easy transport. Mimicking locals, we stood at the bus stop clawing away with our fingers.
Unfortunately, I personally did not like khao lam but the boys seemed to enjoy it. The ones we had were too sweet for my taste and the glutinous rice just does not do it for me. However, I have to say the the rice (having been cooked in bamboo) absorbed a woody flavour and produced a very unique aroma.
I can see why the locals make this dish their staple; you can easily cycle home or get on the bus with khao lam slinged over your shoulders. It tastes good eaten hot or cold, is very filling and relatively cheap.
Be careful not to eat too much! According to Thai tradition, sticky rice puts you fast asleep if more than a couple of handfuls are eaten.
July 29, 2008 at 6:03 pm · Filed under Culture, Thailand
Being the quiet quaint town, I was ready for boredom as night falls. So imagine my thrill when I discovered shisha here.
As far as the Rat Pack is concerned, turns out I was the only “experienced” one. So I ordered apple, my favorite and always the classic for induction.
At this point, Julius looks intently at the hookah, then at me, “Is there tobacco in this?”
I grinned, “Do you care? Anyway, just take a deep breath of it then exhale.”
One minute later, the newbie inhales, followed quickly by a contorted face.
30 minutes later, Julius gets jiggy with it.
One hour later, JULIUS TURNS PRO!
And we huffed and puffed together under the rural Thai night sky, late into the night …
June 28, 2008 at 8:50 pm · Filed under Architecture, Culture, Thailand
There are no bicycle racks here, no posts, pipes or loops whatsoever to secure our bikes. So we got creative.
Upon arriving at the museum, you won’t be entirely convinced with the signage – given the proliferation of piracy in Thailand.
Inside, it’s not too shabby at all. Too bad no cameras are allowed, but there’s a plenty of models to help you wrap your head around how massive the Death Railway is/was.
There’s even an actual reconstruction of the Bridge over River Kwai (earlier wooden version) and even 1:1 models of the prisoners’ living conditions. Historical photographs are worth seeing too.
It’s rather abrupt to see such orderliness and cleanliness in a country like Thailand, but it shouldn’t be surprising given that it’s managed by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.
There are 6,982 POWs buried here mostly Australian, British and Dutch.
Having visited many World War II memorials sites, notably the ANZAC memorials in Sydney, Melbourne and Canberra, as well as the Ranau War Memorial in Borneo – I can’t help but feel a sense of connection between all of them.
I guess war amplifies differences but ultimately makes the world smaller.
May 27, 2008 at 2:22 am · Filed under Culture, Nature, Thailand
What trip to Thailand would be complete without observing an elephant up close and personal.
Oh-oh it’s turning! Looks like it’s trying to strike a conversation, say something.
Hi there.
Wait, I SWEAR I’m hearing something. Elephants trumpet don’t they? This sounds suspiciously like water, like sprinkling water.
Holy Crap!
Run! But where? Stay in front! Are we intruding? Do elephants have modesty?
Move behind it, there’ll be elephant pee surging to our sandals! Help, dilemma!
Ahh, I thought the torrent would never stop. If you look hard enough, you’ll see a satisfied smirk on its face.
April 25, 2008 at 9:29 pm · Filed under Architecture, Culture, Thailand
Kanchanaburi is a real nice quiet & small town, perfect for cycling. In the case of one of us, learning how to cycle.
You wouldn’t even suspect one of World War II’s little big epics is set here.
Have you ever read the novel, or seen the film “The Bridge on the River Kwai”? Here’s news for you, the plot is entirely fictitious.
The actual bridge over River Kwai however, is very real – as well as the deaths of forced slave labour used to build it, estimated to be 13,000 prisoners-of-war and 80,000 to 100,000 civilians from Malaya, Dutch East Indies, Siam and Burma.
WWII aficionados will appreciate that it is an integral part of the infamous Burma Death Railway and all the concrete and steel parts are intact since the war ended, a definite must-see site.
What I find more amusing is that the river was not originally called River Kwai. Before 1960, that is before the release of the novel and movie, it was called Mae Klong.
Typical of Hollywood foul ups, the novelist who inspired the movie never visited the bridge and assumed that, since the Burma Railway ran along most of the nearby River Kwai, the bridge must have crossed it.
A flood of misguided tourists showed up only to find there was no such bridge over River Kwai, and the authorities in Thailand subsequently renamed the river Kwai Yai (trans: แควใหญ่, thai for Big Tributary).
And bravo, history is changed to the delight and convenience of tourists. You won’t find this fact in travel brochures and sorts.
There’s a strange transition of scale between the end and mid-sections. The rounded arches appear larger than life, and the angular sections (the bit that got bombed by Allied forces, and thereafter rebuilt by the Japanese as “payment for their war crimes”) are much larger than expected.
For a bridge that’s declared “actively used today”, there’s really nothing on the other side. The one-carriage “train” that crosses holds about 10-12 passengers only, for a pathetic shuttle back and forth the river banks.
It puts pedestrians (like us) in a rather precarious position. If we can’t make it to the next platform in time, we have to sidestep and balance ourselves on a narrow 30 cm piece of something (eg. steel beam or timber board) about 4 metres above the swirling river.
Happened to me twice, must say it was utterly hair raising.
March 12, 2008 at 11:42 pm · Filed under Culture, Food, Thailand, Unusual
When night falls in Nakhon Pathom, a night market emerges underneath the twilight shadow of a great chedi. A lone man appears with his stall, unassuming at first but his unshakable aura of confidence – soon follows.
Reaching his usual spot at the market, he picks up his ice cream scoop. He looks around, searching and suddenly, makes eye contact with you. A wave of energy rushes forth from him and he SNAPS into his starting position!!
He looks you in the eye and bellows,
SATU, DUA, TIGAAAAAA – AN YOUNG HA SAY OHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! (안녕하세요 – Thanks Sae Hoon)
Whips out a red fan from nowhere – splays it above, below and next to him. Fan disappears. And in a split second – a blur of movements ensues, like a drunken martial arts master he assumes one contorted pose after another.
The master finishes his moves, final stance. Then slowly tilts his head up.
A PIECE OF ICE CREAM HAS BEEN LAUNCHED, IT’S FLYING IN THE AIR!!!
Time slows down, the silence became deafening, it sails across the air in a curve, slowing spinning along its trajectory … and it lands!
Perfectly in the cup held by his accomplice from the audience, 20 metres away!
The crowd erupts in applause!!! The master bows! Our minds, blown away!
And before you know it, another unmistakable wave of energy …
SATU, DUA, TIGAAAAAA – AN YOUNG HA SAY OHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!
February 28, 2008 at 12:00 am · Filed under Architecture, Thailand
Walked out of Nakhon Pathom’s train station and it was squarely right front of us. The scale of the chedi is huge compared to the rest of the town is (which after all, is named after the chedi).
I expected it to be even bigger but you start walking towards it and suddenly realise – you haven’t gotten a lot closer. By the way, it’s 120 metres high.
The sheer size of it is hard to tell, even up close like this. If you care to imagine, those irregular specks on top are not dirt but pigeons. (Architects, for scale the tiles are about 150mm x 150mm).
Like all chedis, there’s no “inside” per say. So we walked around the also unassumingly large colonnade. The whole atmosphere is really, urm, ORANGE though it’s not captured on camera (thank you, JPEG algorithms). And the colour really lends itself to the calming serenity, kind of like, a perpetual quiet sunset feeling.
Then you see a statue that looks a little “CHINESE”?
Sure enough, Phra Pathom Chedi also claims to be the oldest temple in Thailand (trans: Pathom means “of the beginning”). So it has a lot of history going for it (apparently since the 4th century) but what you see today is initiated by King Mongkut in 1853.
So the statues are some ballasts of Chinese ships from a few hundred years ago.
What? Well why use boring rectilinear stones when you can carve elaborate statues just for keeping ships bouyant? After we load our ships with much heavier cargo, we’ll just chuck these statues away onshore!
Calling the chinese opulent?? Who dares to be so insolent…
January 13, 2008 at 9:26 am · Filed under Architecture, Thailand
I have something to confess …
I have this uncontrollable urge to immediately condemn any form of “classical” European style in this part of the world.
I know, I know but you’ll be surprised with the prevalence of bungalows with Greek columns, Tudor facades and “Some Exotic Asian” roof, not only in Thailand but in all parts of Asia.
You may also be surprised that most of these houses are not products of 80’s Post-Modern historicity but comes from an unbroken lineage of rags-to-riches clientele who felt compelled to be Euro-centric once they consider themselves “upper-class”.
Looking at Hua Lamphong train station …. I have a feeling this culture goes WAY back.
This train station is built in the Italian Renaissance style in the early 20th century by a Turin-born Mario Tamagno. So at least it was designed by a European, but at that time I’m sure he would have felt the bubbling excitement of Art Nouveau and/or Art Deco.
But thanks to a genuinely Euro-centric monarch known as the famous King Chulalongkorn of Siam (Rama V of the Chakri Dynasty), these ideas are very much at home with his grand plans to “westernise” Siam. So I suppose even “Italian Renaissance” would appear to be progressive.
Here’s a closer look of him in his official (note: Western) uniform.
So you have a rapidly Westernising Siam, and the overwhelming presence of Britain in India, Malaya & Burma, Dutch in Indonesia and the French in Indochina – all of the sudden, European IS the aristocracy.
But why the eclecticism? King Mongkut (also known as Rama IV – the father of our good fellow above) has an interesting quote that far outlived him …
King Mongkut once remarked to a Christian missionary friend: “What you teach us to do is admirable, but what you teach us to believe is foolish”.
So you see, when it comes to matters of science and technology everything is just imported wholesale. When it comes to matters of culture and religion, it seems that opinions are reserved. And when opinions are reserved, the opportunity for hybridity and “fusion” (so to say) becomes inevitable.
Much like how the Europeans had to somewhat reconcile the Industrial Age with their older architectural habits with, for instance, the Art Nouveau/Deco movement – everyone else in other parts of the world was pretty much doing the same thing albeit with a more jarring consequence in the Far East because of the greater divide.
Of course, I am not attributing the mentality in the region entirely to Rama V, but I’m sure this anecdote is a good insight into how the story played out elsewhere in the vicinity. So here’s my mini-lecture (it could be utter rubbish) on early 20th century Siam architecture.
BUT … next time you are revolted by another Southeast Asian building with an absurd mix of “styles” ….. give it a little thought, it may be more deeply rooted than you think.
January 3, 2008 at 7:52 am · Filed under Architecture, Thailand
Unlike many cities in the world, Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur chose to build their mass transit trains ABOVE ground. For good reason I feel.
Why would you …
… in a climate where the temperature under shade is a constant 25˚C whole year round with wide-open highways ripe for whamming layers of freeways above …
… want to waste time shoving something underground??
No air-conditioning + no digging = lots of money saved !!
Of course, the trade off is this Blade Runner thing you see above.
But … Menacing Concrete Jungle vs. Slick Sci-Fi Metropolis … take your Distopian/Utopian slant !!
Siam Square is not really a square, but a freak load of shopping malls lining a boulevard of Asian consumer indulgence (like Singapore’s Orchard Road, or Tokyo’s Ginza and numerous others). Again, take your slant.
I used to be terrified at the prospect of more and more super duper massive but impersonal shopping labyrinths. But having stayed in laid back Sydney for so long – I really miss the high energy 24/7 buzz in Asian malls, with wide open spaces in between to chill or meet people.
I mean WIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDDDDDDEEEEEEEEEE open spaces.
Or if you’re still conservative, there’re still plenty of ultra claustrophobic people-packed venues! Existing for the exact same reasons of Shopping, Socialising & Eating!!
Ahhh, the wonderful paradoxes of my Asian compatriots …
